Submersible Troubleshooting-A  

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SUBMERSIBLE WELL PUMP TROUBLESHOOTING
 

A - FUSES BLOW OR CIRCUIT BREAKER TRIPS WHEN MOTOR IS STARTED

CAUSE OF TROUBLE HOW TO CHECK HOW TO CORRECT
1. Incorrect line voltage. Check line voltage terminals in control box or connection box if 2-wire model, with voltmeter. Make sure that voltage is within the minimum-maximum range prescribed by manufacturer. If the voltage is incorrect, contact the power company to have it corrected.
2. Defective control box:
 a) Defective wiring.

(Skip for 2 wire models)

Check all motor and power-line wiring in control box, following the wiring diagram found inside box. Check that all connections are tight and no short circuits exist due to worn insulation, crossed wires,  etc. Rewire any incorrect circuits. Tighten loose connections. Replace worn wires.
 b) Incorrect components. Check all control box components to insure they are correct type and size specific for your pump with manufacturer’s literature. Check previous service work to see if correct components were installed. Replace any incorrect component with the size and type recommended by the manufacturer.
 c) Defective starting capacitor (skip for 2-wire models). Using an ohmmeter, determine resistance across starting capacitor. When contact is made, the ohmmeter needle should jump at once, then move up slowly. No movement indicates an open capacitor or defective  relay points. No resistance means the capacitor is shorted. Replace defective starting capacitor.
 d) Defective relay (skip for 2-wire models). Using an ohmmeter, check relay coil. Its resistance should be as shown in the manufacturers literature. Recheck ohmmeter reading across starting capacitor. A good capacitor and no needle movement  indicates defective relay points. If coil resistance is incorrect or points defective, replace relay.
3. Defective pressure switch. Check voltage across pressure switch points. If less than line voltage determined in “1” above, the switch points are causing low voltage by imperfect contact. Clean points with a mild abrasive cloth or replace pressure switch.
4. Pump in crooked well. Wedged into a crooked well the motor and pump may become misaligned resulting in a locked rotor. Pull pump and straighten well.
5. Defective motor winding or cable:
 a) Shorted or open motor winding.
Check resistance of motor winding by using an ohmmeter on proper terminals in control box (see manufacturer’s wiring diagram). Resistance should match ohms specified in manufacture’s data sheet. If too  low, motor winding may be shorted; if high or infinite resistance, check for open circuit in motor winding. If the motor winding is defective - shorted or open - the pump must be pulled and the motor repaired.
 b) Grounded cable or wiring. Ground one lead of ohmmeter to drop pipe or shell casing, touch other lead to each motor wire terminal. If needle moves appreciably there is a good ground in either cable or motor winding. Pull the pump and inspect the cable for damage. Replace damaged cable. If cable checks OK, the motor winding is grounded.
6. Pump sand locked. Make pump run backwards by interchanging main and start winding (black and red) motor leads at control box. Pull pump disassemble and clean. Before replacing make sure sand has settled in well. If well is chronically sandy and submersible should not be used.

A-Fuses Blow-startup | B-Little water delivery | C-Frequent Starts | D-Fuses blow-running | E-Pump will not shutoff

F-Motor does not Start 

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