Troubleshooting

Having a bit of trouble with your product? We're here to help. Here are some common topics we are asked about.

Please note that these guides are general in nature. Please refer to your instruction manual for specific information regarding your product.

Submersible Well Pumps

Fuses Blow or Circuit Breaker Trips When Motor is Started

Cause of Trouble	What to Check	How to Correct
Incorrect line voltage	Check line voltage terminals in control box or connection box if 2-wire model, with voltmeter. Make sure that voltage is within the minimum-maximum range prescribed by manufacturer.	If the voltage is incorrect, contact the power company to have it corrected.
Defective control box: a) Defective wiring (skip for 2-wire models)	Check all motor and power line wiring in control box, following the wiring diagram found inside box. Check that all connections are tight and no short circuits exist due to worn insulation, crossed wires, etc.	Rewire any incorrect circuits. Tighten loose connections. Replace worn wires.
b) Incorrect components	Check all control box components to insure they are correct type and size specific for your pump with manufacturer's literature. Check previous service work to see if correct components were installed.	Replace any incorrect component with the size and type recommended by the manufacturer.
c) Defective starting capacitor (skip for 2-wire models)	Using an ohmmeter, determine resistance across starting capacitor. When contact is made, the ohmmeter needle should jump at once, then move up slowly. No movement indicates an open capacitor or defective relay points. No resistance means the capacitor is shorted.	Replace defective starting capacitor.
d) Defective relay (skip for 2-wire models)	Using an ohmmeter, check relay coil. Its resistance should be as shown in the manufacturer's literature. Recheck ohmmeter reading across starting capacitor. A good capacitor and no needle movement indicates defective relay points.	If coil resistance is incorrect or points defective, replace relay.
Defective pressure switch	Check voltage across pressure switch points. If less than line voltage determined in #1 above, the switch points are causing low voltage by imperfect contact.	Clean points with a mild abrasive cloth or replace pressure switch.
Pump in crooked well	Wedged into a crooked well the motor and pump may become misaligned resulting in a locked rotor.	Pull pump and straighten well.
Defective motor winding or cable: a) Shorted or open motor winding	Check resistance of motor winding by using an ohmmeter on proper terminals in control box (see manufacturer's wiring diagram). Resistance should match ohms specified in manufacturer's data sheet. If too low, motor winding may be shorted; if high or infinite resistance, check for open circuit in motor winding.	If the motor winding is defective, shorted or open, the pump must be pulled and the motor repaired.
b) Grounded cable or wiring	Ground one lead of ohmmeter to drop pipe or shell casing, touch other lead to each motor wire terminal. If needle moves appreciable, there is a good ground in either cable or motor winding.	Pull the pump and inspect the cable for damage. Replace damaged cable. If cable checks OK, the motor winding is grounded.
Pump sand-locked	Make pump run backwards by interchanging main and start winding (black and red) motor leads at control box.	Pull pump, disassemble and clean. Before replacing, make sure sand has settled in well. If well is chronically sandy submersible should not be used.

Pump Operates But Delivers Little or No Water

Cause of Trouble	How to Check	How to Correct
Pump may be air locked	Stop and start pump several times, waiting between cycles. If pump resumes normal delivery, air lock was trouble.	If this test fails to correct the trouble, proceed as below.
Water level in well too low	Well production may be too low for pump capacity. Restrict flow of pump output, wait for well to recover and start pump.	If partial restriction corrects trouble, leave valve or cock at restricted setting. Otherwise, lower pump in well if depth is sufficient. Do not lower if sand clogging might occur.
Discharge line check valve installed backward	Examine check valve on discharge lien to make sure arrow indicating direction of flow points in right direction.	Reverse valve if necessary.
Leak in drop pipe	Raise pipe and examine for leaks.	Replace damaged section of drop pipe.
Pump check valve jammed by drop pipe	When pump is pulled after completing #4 above, examine drop pipe connection to pump outlet. If threaded section of drop pipe has been screwed in too far, it may be jamming the check valve in the closed position.	Unscrew drop pipe and cut off portion of threads.
Pump intake screen blocked	The intake screen on the pump may be locked by sand or mud. Examine.	Clean screen. Make sure pump is re-installed several feet above well bottom, preferably 10 feet or more.
Pump parts worn	Presence of abrasives in water may result in excessive wear on impeller, casing and other close-clearance parts. Before pulling pump, reduce setting on pressure switch to see if pump shuts off. If it does, check for worn parts.	Pull pump and replace worn components.
Motor shaft loose	Coupling between motor and pump shaft may have worked loose. Inspect after pulling pump and looking for worn components as in #7 above.	Tighten all connections, set screws, etc.

Pump Starts Too Frequently

Cause of Trouble	How to Check	How to Correct
Pressure switch defective or out of adjustment	Check pressure setting switch and examine for defects.	Reduce pressure setting or replace switch.
Leak in pressure tank above water level	Apply soap solution to entire tank surface check for bubbles indicating air escaping.	Repair or replace tank.
Leak in plumbing system	Examine service line to house and distribution branches for leaks.	Repair leaks.
Discharge line check valve leaking.	Remove and examine.	Replace if defective.
Air volume control plugged.	Remove and inspect air volume control.	Clean or replace.
Snifter valve plugged	Remove and inspect snifter valve.	Clean or replace.

Fuses Blow When Motor is Running

Cause of Trouble	What to Check	How to Correct
Incorrect voltage	Check line voltage terminals in control box or connection box if 2-wire model, with voltmeter. Make sure that voltage is within the minimum-maximum range prescribed by manufacturer.	If the voltage is incorrect, contact the power company to have it corrected.
Overheated overload protection box.	If sunlight or other source of heat has made box too hot, circuit breakers may trip or fuses blow. If box is hot to the touch, this may be the problem.	Ventilate or shade box, or remove the source of heat.
Defective control box components (skip this for 2-wire models)	Using an ohmmeter, determine the resistance across the running capacitor. When contact is made, the ohmmeter needle should jump at once, then move up more slowly. No movement indicates an open capacitor (or defective relay points), no resistance means that the capacitor is shorted. Using an ohmmeter, check the relay coil. Its resistance should be as shown in the manufacturer's literature. Recheck ohmmeter reading across running capacitor. With a good capacitor, no movements of the needle indicates relay points.	Replace defective components.
Defective motor winding or cable	Check the resistance of the motor winding by using an ohmmeter on the proper terminals in the control box (see manufacturer's wiring diagram). The resistance should match the ohms specified in the manufacturer's data sheet. If too low, the motor winding may be shorted. If the ohmmeter needle does not move, indicating high or infinite resistance, there is an open circuit in the motor winding. Ground one lead of the ohmmeter onto the drop pipe or shell casing, then touch the other lead to each motor wire terminal. If the ohmmeter needle moves appreciably when this is done, there is a ground in either the cable or the motor winding.	If neither cable or winding is defective, shorted, grounded or open - pump must be pulled and serviced.
Pump becomes sand-locked	If the fuses blow while the pump is operating, sand or grit may have become wedged in the impeller, causing the rotor to lock. To check this, pull the pump.	Pull pump, disassemble and clean. Before replacing, make sure that sand has settled in well. If well is chronically sandy, a submersible should not be used.

Pump Will Not Shut Off

Cause of Trouble	How to Check	How to Correct
Defective pressure switch	Arcing may have caused pressure switch points to 'weld' in closed position. Examine points and other parts of switch for defects.	Clean points or replace switch.
Water level in well too low	Well production may be too low for pump capacity. Restrict flow of pump output, wait for well to recover and start pump.	If partial restriction corrects trouble, leave valve or cock at restricted setting. Otherwise, lower pump in well if depth is sufficient. Do not lower if sand clogging might occur.
Leak in drop line	Raise pipe and examine for leaks.	Replace damaged section of drop pipe.
Pump parts worn	The presence of abrasives in the water may result in wear on the impeller, casing and other close-clearance parts. Before pulling the pump, reduce setting on pressure switch to see if pump shuts off. If it does, worn parts are probably at fault.	Pull pump and replace worn components.
Pump becomes sand locked	If the fuses blow while the pump is operating, sand or grit may have become wedged in the impeller, causing the rotor to lock. To check this, pull the pump.	Pull pump, disassemble and clean. Before replacing, make sure that sand has settled in well. If well is chronically sandy, a submersible should not be used.

Motor Does Not Start But Fuses Do Not Blow

Cause of Trouble	How to Check	How to Correct
Overload protection out	Check fuses or circuit breaker to see that they are operable.	If fuses are blown, replace. If breaker is tripped, reset.
No power	Check power supply to control box (or overload protection box) by placing a voltmeter across incoming power lines. Voltage should be approximate nominal line voltage.	If no power is reaching box, contact power company for service.
Defective control box	Examine wiring in control box to make sure all connections are tight. With a voltmeter, check voltage at motor wire terminals. If no voltage is shown at terminals, wiring is defective in control box	Correct faulty wiring or tighten loose contacts.
Defective pressure switch	With voltmeter, check voltage across pressure switch while the switch is closed. If the voltage drop is equal to the line voltage, the switch is not making contact.	Clean points or replace switch.

Jet Pumps

Pump Won't Start or Run

Cause of Trouble	How to check	How to correct
Blown fuse	Check to see if fuse is OK.	If blown, replace with fuse of proper size.
Low line voltage	Use voltmeter to check pressure switch or terminals nearest pump.	If voltage under recommended minimum, check wire size from main switch on property. If OK, contact power company.
Loose, broken or incorrect wiring	Check wiring circuit on diagram. See that all connections are tight and no short circuits exist because of worn insulation, crossed wires, etc.	Rewire any incorrect circuits. Tighten connections, replace defective wires.
Defective motor	Check to see that switch is closed.	Repair or take to motor service station.
Defective pressure switch	Check switch setting. Examine switch contacts for dirt or excessive water.	Adjust switch settings. Clean contacts with emery cloth if dirty.
Tubing to pressure switch closed	Remove tubing and blow through it.	Clean or replace if plugged.
Impeller or seal	Turn off power. Using a screwdriver, try to turn impeller or motor.	If impeller will not turn, remove housing to locate source of binding.
Defective start capacitor	Use an ohmmeter to check resistance across capacitor. Needle should jump when contact is made. No movement means an open capacitor; no resistance means capacitor is shorted.	Replace capacitor or take motor to service stations.
Motor shorted out	If fuse is blown when pump is started (and external wiring is OK), motor is shorted.	Replace motor.

Motor Overheats and Overload Trips Out

Cause of Trouble	How to Check	How to Correct
Incorrect line voltage	Use voltmeter to check at pressure switch or terminals nearest pump.	If voltage under recommended minimum, check size of wiring from main switch on property. If OK, contact power company.
Motor wired incorrectly	Check motor wiring diagram	Reconnect for proper voltage as per wiring diagram.
Inadequate ventilation	Check air temperature where pump is located. If over 100º F overload may be tripping on external heat.	Provide adequate ventilation or move pump.
Prolonged low pressure delivery	Continuous operation at very low pressure places heavy overload on pump. This can cause overload protection to trip.	Install globe valve on discharge line and throttle to increase pressure.

Pump Starts and Stops Too Often

Cause of Trouble	How to Check	How to Correct
Leak in pressure tank	Apply soapy water to entire surface above water line. If bubbles appear, air is leaking from tank.	Repair leaks or replace tank.
Defective air volume control	This will lead to waterlogged tank. Make sure control is operating properly. If not, remove and examine for plugging.	Clean or replace defective control.
Faulty pressure switch	Check switch setting. Examine switch contacts for dirt or excessive wear.	Adjust switch settings. Clean contacts with emery cloth if dirty.
Leak on discharge side of system	Make sure all fixtures in plumbing system are shut off. Then, check all units (especially ball cocks) for leaks. Listen for noise of water running.	Repair leaks as necessary.
Leak on suction side of system	On shallow well units, install pressure gauge on suction side. On deep well systems, attach a pressure gauge to the pump. Close the discharge line valve. Then, using a bicycle pump or air compressor, apply about 30 PSI pressure to the system. If the system will not hold this pressure when the compressor is shut off, there is a leak on the suction side.	Make sure above ground connections are tight. Then, repeat test. If necessary, pull piping and repair leak.
Leak in foot valve	Pull piping and examine foot valve.	Repair or replace defective valve.

Pump Won't Shut Off

Cause of Trouble	How to Check	How to Correct
Wrong pressure switch setting or setting 'drift'	Lower switch setting. If pump shuts off, this was the trouble.	Adjust switch to proper setting.
Defective pressure switch	Arcing may have caused switch contacts to 'weld' together in closed position. Examine points and other parts of switch for defects.	Replace switch if defective.
Tubing to pressure switch plugged	Remove tubing and blow through it.	Clean or replace if plugged.
Loss of prime	When no water is delivered, check prime of pump and well piping.	Re-prime if necessary.
Low well level	Check well depth against pump performance table to make sure pump and ejector are properly sized.	If undersized, replace pump or ejector.
Plugged ejector	Remove ejector and inspect.	Clean and reinstall if dirty.

Pump Operates But Delivers Little or No Water

Cause of Trouble	How to Check	How to Correct
Low line voltage	Use voltmeter to check at pressure switch or terminals nearest pump.	If voltage under recommended minimum, check size of wiring from main switch on property. If OK, contact power company.
System incompletely primed	When no water is delivered, check prime of pump and well piping.	Re-prime if necessary.
Air lock in suction line	Check horizontal piping between well and pump. If it does not pitch upward from well to pump, an air lock may form.	Rearrange piping to eliminate air lock.
Undersized piping	If system delivery is low, the discharge piping and/or plumbing lines may be undersized. Re-figure friction loss.	Replace undersized piping or install pump with higher capacity.
Leak in air volume control or tubing	Disconnect air volume control tubing at pump and plug hole. If capacity increases, a leak exists in the tubing of control.	Tighten all fittings and replace control if necessary.
Pressure regulating valve stuck or incorrectly set (deep well only)	Check valve setting. Inspect valve for defects.	Reset, clean or replace valve as needed.
Leak on suction side of system	On shallow well units, install pressure gauge on suction side. On deep well systems, attach a pressure gauge to the pump. Close the discharge line valve. Then, using a bicycle pump or air compressor, apply about 30 PSI pressure to the system. If the system will not hold this pressure when the compressor is shut off, there is a leak on the suction side.	Make sure above ground connections are tight. Then repeat test. If necessary, pull piping and repair leak.
Low well level	Check well depth against pump performance table to make sure pump and ejector are properly sized.	If undersized, replace pump or ejector.
Wrong pump/ejector combination	Check pump and ejector models against manufacturer's performance tables.	Replace ejector if wrong model is being used.
Low well capacity	Shut off pump and allow well to recover. Restart pump and note whether delivery drops after continuous operation.	If well is 'weak', lower ejector (deep well), use a tail pipe (deep well) or switch from shallow well to deep well equipment.
Plugged ejector	Remove ejector and inspect.	Clean and re-install if dirty.
Defective or plugged foot valve and/or strainer	Pull foot valve and inspect. Partial clogging will reduce delivery. Complete clogging will result in no water flow. A defective foot valve may cause pump to lose prime, resulting in no delivery.	Clean, repair or replace as needed.
Worn or defective pump parts or plugged impeller	Low delivery may result from wear on impeller or other pump parts. Disassemble and inspect.	Replace worn parts or entire pump. Clean parts if required.

HSPJ Lawn Sprinkler/Irrigation Pumps

Little or No Discharge

What to Check	How to Correct
Casing not initially filled with water	Fill pump casing.
Total head too high	Shorten suction lift and/or change head.

Pump Will Not Deliver Water or Develop Pressure

What to Check	How to Correct
No priming water in casing	Fill pump casing.
Mechanical seal is leaking	Replace. (see Rotary Seal Replacement Instructions)
Leak in suction line	Repair or replace.
Discharge line is closed and priming air has nowhere to go	Open.
Suction line (or valve) is closed	Open.
Pump is down	Replace worn parts.
Foot valve is leaking	Replace foot valve.
Suction screen clogged	Clean or replace.

Loss of Suction

What to Check	How to Correct
Air leak in suction line	Repair or replace.
Suction lift too high	Lower suction lift, install foot valve and prime.
Insufficient inlet pressure or suction head	Increase inlet pressure by adding more water to tank or increasing back pressure.
Clogged foot valve or strainer	Unclog.

Pump Vibrates or Makes Excessive Noise

What to Check	How to Correct
Improperly wired	Check wiring diagram on motor.
Blown fuse or open circuit breaker	Replace fuse or close circuit breaker.
Loose or broken wiring	Tighten connections, replace broken wiring.
Stone or foreign object lodged in impeller	Disassemble pump and remove foreign object.
Motor shorted out	Replace.
Thermal overload has opened circuit	Allow unit to cool, restart after reason for overload has been determined.

Pump Will Not Start or Run

What to Check	How to Correct
Improperly wired	Check wiring diagram on motor.
Blown fuse or open circuit breaker	Replace fuse or close circuit breaker.
Loose or broken wiring	Tighten connections, replace broken wiring
Stone or foreign object lodged in impeller	Disassemble pump and remove foreign object.
Motor shorted out	Replace.
Thermal overload has opened circuit	Allow unit to cool, restart after reason for overload has been determined.

Pump Leaks at Shaft

What to Check	How to Correct
Worn mechanical seal	Replace (see Rotary Seal Replacement Instructions)

HCJ103, HCJ103 End Suction Centrifugal Pumps

Little or No Discharge

What to Check	How to Correct
Pump not primed	Prime unit.
Total head too high	Shorten suction lift and/or discharge head.
Suction head higher than pump designed for	Lower pump inlet.
Impeller clogged	Clean.
Incorrect rotation	Refer to wiring information.
Leak in suction line	Repair or replace.
Inadequate foot valve	Make needed adjustments.
Impeller damaged	Replace.
Foot valve or suction line not submerged deep enough in water	Submerge lower in water.
Insufficient inlet pressure or suction head	Increase inlet pressure by adding more fluid to fluid source.
Wrong size piping	Make needed adjustments.
Casing gasket leaking	Replace gasket.
Suction or discharge line valves closed	Open.

Loss of Suction

What to Check	How to Correct
Air leak in suction line	Repair.
Suction head too high	Lower pump inlet.
Insufficient inlet pressure or suction head	Increase inlet pressure by adding more fluid to fluid source.
Clogged foot valve or strainer	Clean or replace.

Pump Vibrates and/or Makes Excessive Noise

What to Check	How to Correct
Mounting plate or foundation not rigid enough	Reinforce.
Foreign material in pump	Clean.
Damaged impeller	Replace.
Cavitation present	Check suction line for proper size and be certain valve is open. Remove excessive loops in suction line.
Worn motor bearing	Replace.
Bent impeller shaft	Replace.

Pump Will Not Start or Run

What to Check	How to Correct
Improperly wired	Refer to wiring diagram.
Blown fuse or open circuit breaker	Replace fuse or close circuit breaker.
Loose or broken wiring	Tighten connections and replace broken wiring.
Impeller clogged	Clean.
Motor shorted out	Replace.

Pump Leaks at Shaft

What to Check	How to Correct
Worn mechanical seal	Replace.
Bent impeller shaft	Replace.

Fountain Pond Pumps

Unit Won't Run

Possible Causes	Corrective Action
Circuit breaker tripped	Reset circuit breaker
Low voltage	Verify voltage
GFI Tripped	Reset GFI

No or Low Spray

Possible Causes	Corrective Action
Blocked screen or nozzle, missing or damaged o-ring, or incorrectly installed nozzle	Disconnect power. Clean screen and/or nozzle. Check that o-ring is undamaged and seated in groove. Check that nozzle is installed properly (nozzles are marked “This side up”). Check depth of pond. If less than 5 feet deep, move to deeper section. Restart unit.

GFI Trips

Possible Causes	Corrective Action
Electrical storm can trip GFI	Reset GFI.
Short in system	Disconnect power and check cord for damage. If cord is damaged contact Customer Service Help Line listed at bottom of page for replacement.
Defective power cable	Disconnect power and check cord for damage. If cord is damaged, contact Customer Service help line at 1-800-742-5044

Unit Spins

Possible Causes

Corrective Action

Anchor rope loose

Check anchor rope and re-attach if necessary.

Sump Pumps
- Do's and Don't's
  
  Don't put chemicals into the pump system such as acids, floor wax, paints or any de-greasing chemicals. Common household soaps and detergents are acceptable. Contact the manufacturer with any chemical questions.
  
  Don't flush any items that are not biodegradable such as paper towels, feminine hygiene products, condoms, or other items that could jam the pump impeller. A moderate amount of tissue paper in a system is acceptable.
  
  Don't use a discharge pipe smaller than the pump's discharge size.
  
  Don't use an extension cord with a sewage pump.
  
  Don't ever cut, splice or damage the power cord.
  
  Don't carry or lift the pump by the power cord.
  
  Do thoroughly read all installation material provided with the pump.
  
  Do inspect pump for any visible damage caused by shipping. Contact dealer if pump appears to be damaged.
  
  Do clean all built up debris in sewage pit if debris can obstruct the pump's initial start up. Be sure that the pump will have a hard, flat surface beneath it.
  
  Do be sure that the pit is large enough to allow proper clearance for the pump's float switch.
  
  Do always disconnect pump from power source before handling.
  
  Do always connect to a separately protected and properly grounded circuit.
  
  Do install a check valve and a union in the discharge line.
  
  Do drill a 3/16" (5 mm) weep hole between the check valve and the pump housing.
  
  Do consult manufacturer for clarifications or questions.
  
  Do consider a Two Pump System with an alarm where an installation may become overloaded or primary pump failure would result in property damage.
  
  Do keep all warranty information, installation instructions and receipts for future use.
  
  Do size the pump to the proper capacity of the home. In a Two Pump System, each pump should be sized to meet the home's pumping requirements.
  
  Do verify that the sewage pit is gas tight and well vented to prevent odors.

Water Softeners

Just installed and water is not soft

What to Check	How to Correct
Has unit been properly installed?	Review instructions to see that all steps were followed.
Shut off valves in piping haven't been properly shut off, causing hard water to by-pass unit	Make sure shut off valves on piping going into and out of softener are open and the valve in between is closed.
By-pass valve on unit is in service.	Most units come with a brass by-pass valve. Make sure red lever is pointing to 'Service' rather than 'By-Pass'.
Is unit piped in backwards?	Check arrows where pipe threads into valve head and make sure water is flowing consistent with the direction arrows are pointing.
Hot water tank hardness	Allow sufficient time for hardness that has built up in your water heater and pipes to run through system. Repeated flushing of the water heater tank can also be done.
Is there resin in the tank?	Softeners ship with resin already in the tank. Make sure the resin has not been emptied or dumped. Put a trouble light behind resin tank and you should be able to see the resin through the mineral tank.
Valve head is not working correctly and causing water flow not to go through softener	Shut off water supply, de-pressurize the unit, unscrew the valve head from unit and exchange it.
Softener has been undersized and does not effectively remove the amount of hardness in your water	Draw a sample of untreated water before it goes through the softener and sample of treated water after the softener. Have the samples analyzed and see if any hardness is being removed.
Water flow rate going through the softener is not allowing time for the unit to soften	Open an outside faucet and fill a measured bucket up with water for 1 minute. The amount of gallons in the bucket tells you how many gallons per minute are being run through the softener. Call 1-800-545-2206 to see what the GPM limit is on the specific unit you have purchased. Add a flow control accessory to your unit if needed.

Water Tastes Salty or Brine Tank Fills With Water

What to Check

How to Correct

Is backwash water flowing freely down to drain with an air gap and no back siphoning?

Put valve into 'Backwash' position and follow water flow down to drain. If over 20 ft., use 3/4" (or larger) drain tubing. Drain line should be no more than 8 ft. lift.

Brine salt tube and connections not allowing salt solution into mineral tank to regenerate

Visually check tubing for cracks or kinks. Check fittings for proper assembly and tightness as diagrammed.

COMPRESSION-FTG-ASSY-EXPLOD

Water Was Soft But Now Feels Hard

What to Check	How to Correct
No salt in brine tank?	Add salt to brine tank and maintain salt level above water level. Manually regenerate and allow softener to go through all regeneration cycles.
Electrical service to unit has been interrupted	Assure permanent electricity is going to units valve. Reset time of day.
Has softener valve head been programmed to regenerate after installation?	See valve programming instructions. Have water properly tested and diagnosed for correct setting.
Has the by-pass been used and not connected back into service?	Make sure the red lever of the brass by-pass valve is in the service position. On a 3 valve by-pass position, open the inlet and outlet valves and close the by-pass valve.
Salt is bridging in the tank.	Salt in bottom of tank has hardened and is not allowing water/salt mixture to get to the bottom of salt and consequently over to the mineral tank. Do not fill salt tank completely (3/4 full). Use a stick or broom handle and poke into salt, making sure it is broken up.
Salt tube going from salt tank to mineral tank is plugged insufficient water flowing into brine tank?	Put unit into 'Brine Rinse' position. Make sure salt water flows uninterrupted from salt tank to mineral tank. Clean or replace brass brine valve. Clean and unplug necessary line so water flows uninterrupted.
Brine salt line and connections not allowing salt solution into mineral tank to regenerate	Visually check tubing for cracks or kinks. Check fittings for proper assembly and tightness as diagrammed.

Possible Causes	Corrective Action
Anchor rope loose	Check anchor rope and re-attach if necessary.